What I Learned from Vogue Forces of Fashion 2021

In this article:

• Consumers are Holding Designers More Accountable for Incorporating Different Cultures in their Work

• The Importance of Human Connection

• Major Fashion Brand Chloe is Paving the Way for Sustainable Luxury Fashion

• Balenciaga has Re-entered the World of Couture

Introduction

I recently attended the virtual Vogue Forces of Fashion event that took place virtually over two days and included talks from many important names in the fashion, design, and entertainment industry including Anna Wintour, Billie Eilish, and Gabriela Hearst. Forces of Fashion, which was started by Anna Wintour in 2017, allows designers and innovators from all over the world a chance to share information and start important conversations in a professional setting.

Consumers are Holding Designers More Accountable for Incorporating Different Cultures in their Work

In a conversation between Anna Wintour (Editor-in-Chief of Vogue), Margaret Zhang (Editor-in-Chief of Vogue China), Edward Enninful (Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue), and Luke Leitch (Contributing Editor to Vogue Runway)… the three editors-in-chief talked about the demand for education of photographers, art directors, creatives, stylists, etc. in all aspects of fashion when working with people from different countries or backgrounds. Consumers want to be assured that the product they are wearing has been researched, produced fairly, and incorporates the story of the culture it came from. This includes photographs as Vogue photographers are now more than ever using other countries for more than just a shoot location, Shoots abroad now incorporate a lot more homework and cultural infusion than ever before, often using companies from that region in the production of the image. All agree this can only be a step in the right direction for diversity and inclusion at Vogue and media as a whole.

In a conversation between Zerina Akers (Stylist & Costume Designer), Ruth Carter (Costume Designer), and Danielle Kwateng (Executive Editor of Teen Vogue)…these women discussed the lack of representation for women of color in theatre and film. This also translates to advertisements and the lack of diversity we see in social media, print ads, and commercials. Ruth Carter takes this a step further, saying, “The more you know, the better choices you make.” Carter describes how getting background information on a person or a culture, doing your homework, and thoroughly researching an idea creates a thoughtful and accurate clothing design. I believe this is also true for advertisements and the clothing, styling, and overall design choices we make when we decide to represent others.

The Importance of Human Connection

In the same conversation between Anna Wintour (Editor-in-Chief of Vogue), Margaret Zhang (Editor-in-Chief of Vogue China), Edward Enninful (Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue), and Luke Leitch (Contributing Editor to Vogue Runway…Margaret Zhang, who was newly instated into her role as Editor-in-chief of Vogue China just this year, discussed how the pandemic, and the wave of technological innovation that it produced, has “given people a seat at the table”. New designers are more able than ever to live stream fashion shows online or hold digital fashion experiences that require a much smaller budget than traditional in-person events. The three editors seemed to agree that this great change, and the many other changes in fashion that have sprung up in the last 2 years, has been due in part to the fact that there simply has never been the time for it before. The world has taken the time to slow down since being forced to work from home, allowing people the headspace to think of new ideas, break away from the traditional, and get creative. The appearance of so many new digital shows also reminds many people, however, of the fact that fashion shows are a greater, fuller experience in-person. Edward Enninful discussed how the absence of in-person shows leaves people missing human connection, showing how fashion shows can be a form of social event as well as art showcase. He goes on to say that the senses are much more engaged when you can hear, see, smell, and touch things for yourself--something strictly forbidden during a deadly global pandemic. So while the new digital trends are pushing us forward in great ways, all seemed to agree that traditional fashion shows will never be a thing of the past.

Major Fashion Brand Chloe is Paving the Way for Sustainable Luxury Fashion

In a conversation between Gabriela Hearst (Creative Director of Chloe) and Nicole Phelps (Global Director of Vogue Runway)…Gabriela Hearst described her passion for sustainable fashion that comes from her childhood growing up off-grid in Uruguay. After pushing for biodegradable and compostable garment bags (rather than plastic ones) starting in 2017, Hearst is still challenging the clothing industry for greater change. She has since created cardboard hangers to be used in shipping and in-store displays, as well as developing codes to be placed in each of Chloe’s garments that can be scanned by clients to show them what they are made of and why. Her move to eco-friendly materials and production acts as a call to action for other companies, especially those in the luxury industry who create the most waste, as she proves change can occur without a decrease in efficiency or revenue. Hearst concludes, “I can definitely see change happening” when it comes to customers demanding more environmental accountability from brands.

Balenciaga has Re-entered the World of Couture

In a conversation between Demna Gvasalia (Artistic Director of Balenciaga) and Nicole Phelps (Global Director of Vogue Runway)…the two discuss Balenciaga’s return to haute couture after the fashion house initially ceased its couture collections in 1968. Demna Gvasalia says he has been labeled by the fashion world as a sneakerhead and streetwear designer, but he is ready for a change. Gvasalia’s collection bridges the old and the new by incorporating an old design for a minimalist wedding dress made new with a sweatshirt-like material, as well as an opera dress made new by showcasing an elegant, ivory dress shape in the front, but straight-leg, black pants in the back. The line also included a new luxury jean that is rare on any couture runway, moving the casual to a more upscale venue. This comes after customer demand for more modern, usable designs that can be worn in 2021 settings. Gvasalia states that “couture is the place in which magic is preserved”, and I think any fashion-lover would agree his introduction to ready-to-wear was nothing but magical.